My skin care story
Illustration by me – click it for a larger version
Ah, skin care – a temptress, a jungle, a friend, a foe. For me, the story so far seems to have three parts, which I’ve fondly named The Blissful Days, The Hunt, and The New Beginning. But before I get to that, let me just describe my skin a little bit, so you know what it’s all about. My skin has changed with the years, naturally, but it has always been more dry than oily, and often sensitive, too. After I moved south of the Arctic Circle, it also seems to dislike sun more and more, and I now can’t stay more than about fifteen minutes in the sun without burning. Still, it’s mostly been pretty well-behaved, and I know how lucky that makes me.
The Blissful Days
When I was a kid, mum would diligently cover me in sunscreen – the smell of Nivea sunscreen (in those blue bottles) is on my top-five-list-of-scents. As I got older, she’d still throw a bottle of the stuff my way, but I couldn’t always be bothered. I rarely got burnt, and fun things seemed a more reasonable way to spend time. I was born in 1986, after all, so sun protection wasn’t as much discussed back then as it is nowadays.
When I started high school I got intrigued by skin care; more for their feel of indulgence and grown-up-ness than because I thought I actually needed it. I got blemishes and such, as we all do, but not to the extent that I got serious about skin care. No products seemed to make much of a difference either way, really, so the moisturizers and body lotions I kept experimenting with were more for the experience than actual results.
The Hunt
Yeah, those days of ignorance couldn’t really last, could they? I moved further north to study, to a city with much harsher climate than my home town, and my skin started feeling very dry and uncomfortable. Around the same time I truly discovered blogs, and stumbled across a couple of Norwegian beauty bloggers that wrote a lot about the ingredients in skin care. Their mantra was one of simple logic: your skin can only benefit from great ingredients, and naturally, quality costs more than the bad or useless stuff. I now know that this logic is simply too simple, but back then, it seemed a gloriously easy way to find products that would really do something.
Dermalogica became my brand of choice, and I settled on their line for sensitive skin. It felt so good to be actually doing something, to make sure my skin would be as good as it possibly could as I got older. I almost ran away from drugstore brands, and was generally judgemental (if only mostly in my head) towards people using brands like Nivea and Garnier. I had seen the light.
Still, those Dermalogica products were a lot of hassle – a cleanse, a spray, a silicone-based gel, an exfoliant – and my skin didn’t feel much better. Every time I came out of the shower it would feel very tight, and during the (extremely long) winter it would flake, making it hard for me to play with my developing makeup skills. I tried other brands, carefully using them for a long enough period of time so my skin would get a chance to (possibly, hopefully!) approve. The expensive-is-good-mantra seemed to be failing me, and it wasn’t good for my student economy either. I kept searching, but mostly just felt annoyed at the whole thing.
The New Beginning
Like all good revelations, this one started with a date: February the 29th, 2012, was the day I purchased Paula Begoun’s The Original Beauty Bible. Just as the bloggers from my “hunting period” had based their advice on (albeit faulty) logic, so did this book – and I’m such a sucker for logic, blame Dr. House. The difference was that although Paula‘s logic couldn’t be summed up in one simple sentence, it was based on actual research. Even better: independent, solid research, not the kind that companies pay for to further their sales. Paula stressed the importance of good ingredients, but also explained how this wasn’t as automatically linked to price as I wished to believe.
Of course, by this time I was also about as jaded as the aforementioned Dr. House. I’d read too many articles, too many blogs, and watched too much money swirl down the sink. There seemed to me not to be a single skin care method that I hadn’t tried, and rejected. Still, I couldn’t resist trying out some of Paula’s advice, even only to prove her wrong. She has a website, Beautypedia, where she rates beauty products from all kinds of brands and price ranges. After reading the book and deciding that my skin type was normal-to-dry, and also possibly sensitive, I switched to some of the products recommended at Beautypedia. I chose a cleanser and a moisturizer from The Body Shop, because they were easily available and affordable; also, The Body Shop was one of the brands those beauty bloggers would downright sneer at, so it would be a bit of a double triumph if the products worked well for me.
Funnily enough, they did. My skin was less dry and itchy. It didn’t flash red every time I’d “treated” it. It wasn’t as glowing as the PhotoShopped ads, that ideal that refused to fade from my retina, but there was definitely improvement going on. I read The Beauty Bible again, browsed Paula’s website on my phone before bed, looked up ingredients, and checked the Beautypedia ranking on every product I considered buying. I almost felt a bit embarrassed at how often her book and theories sprang to mind in conversations with my friends. I knew I must sound like I’d just converted to “Paulaism”, like I was too blinded by dedication and excitement to realize that this, too, must be too good to be true.
The thing about Paula’s philosophy is that it explains matters in a simple, logical manner, but it also acknowledges that skin care is a very tricky thing. Skin type varies greatly from person to person, and there are so many factors involved; everything from which products you use, to genes and hormones and environment and health and lifestyle. Everything would be much easier if there was one set of products that would work wonderfully for everyone, but that just isn’t possible. Also, there are many areas that needs more research before we can say anything for certain.
I know this isn’t what you wanted to hear. I truly wish I could tell you that “hey, I bought these two, super-affordable products, and now I look like a walking foundation ad – and those products will make any skin look flawless!”. I can’t, though, because I’ve promised to be honest in this blog. What I can tell you, are my personal principles about my skin care. They won’t work for everyone, but perhaps they can inspire you to figure out some principles of your own. Oh, and yes, they are very much inspired by Paula’s book, but that’s because they work for me.
My skin care principles:
– being gentle, gentle, gentle with my skin. I’ve actually stopped manually exfoliating/scrubbing, and use a chemical, BHA-based exfoliator instead. I suspect this is one of the most important changes I’ve made. Magazines and websites and ads are shouting at us to “scrub away that dead skin, and reveal a younger/more radiant you”, but my skin seems to hate violence of any kind. If skin is damaged at all, exfoliating risks making this much worse. Even that all-natural version of salt-and-any-kind-of-oil can do much damage, as it really is just like rubbing salt in a wound.
– avoiding certain ingredients. Mostly, I avoid alcohol (not all kinds, though, just the drying ones) and fragrances, as these always make me itchy and red.
– switching to a sulfate-free shampoo. Just as there are good and bad alcohols, there are different kinds of sulfates, and not all of them are bad. They certainly aren’t the devil juice the media claims them to be. I generally avoid the one called sodium lauryl sulfate, as every hair product I’ve tried with that ingredient has made my scalp sore for days.
– avoiding jar packaging for anything, as air and light are the worst enemies for many beneficial ingredients.
– not using a designated eye cream.
– not believing beauty myths.
– using sun screen every day. Yes, even in winter. This is especially important as I use a chemical exfoliator, because it makes skin more vulnerable to sun damage.
– remembering that natural ingredients/products aren’t automatically better than synthetic ones (you can read more about it here, too).
– being nice to myself. Because of life (and sometimes because of my CFS), some days I can’t do everything I want, including the two, three or four steps of my skin care regiment. There just aren’t enough spoons. Those days, I remind myself that it’s not world peace we’re talking about, and that my skin is capable of doing many good things all on its own; letting me feel things around me, and holding me together. Not bad for something that’s mostly just two to three millimetres thick.
Oo, den boken må jeg absolutt kjøpe når jeg ikke har shoppestopp lenger! Nettsiden var også genial. Jeg må innrømme at jeg er ganske obsessed med huden min (men så er den også fet/kvisete/tørr/sensitiv om hverandre, jeg trenger definitivt hjelp.), og beautypedia virket skikkelig smart. Takk for tips!
(fantastisk illustrasjon, forresten^^)
My pleasure, kjære! Den boken + nettsiden gjorde såpass stor forskjell for meg og huden min at jeg syntes jeg måtte dele den. Selv om jeg av og til høres ut som en nyfrelst et-eller-annet :p
Like you I love love love Paula’s book, and although I don’t use it as religiously as you do I have found some pretty amazing products through it. Cleanser was always an issue for me, but Paula’s book directed me towards one from Boots that has wonderful for me. I’m still a bit stubborn when it comes to moisturizer (I’m not quite ready to give up on luxurious things in glass jars just yet), but the day will surely come. I’m dying to try a chemical exfolitaor, because as much as I love my Clarisonic Mia I just want to know if the grass is greener, you know?
Haha, yeah, I know what you mean. Green grass is extremely tempting
I have a feeling you’ll love those BHA/AHA-exfoliators, though, they definitely made a very noticeable difference for me.
Tak for inspiration
Vær så god, Karina
Høres ut som en smart dame, får lese litt på siden hennes! Er litt desperat etter å bli kvitt hudormer, nesen min har vært full av dem i ti år nå, så jeg begynner å bli “litt” lei… Og man leser så mye rart, men ingenting hjelper. “Beste” tipset jeg har fått er at man bare må skrubbe skrubbe skrubbe selv om det gjør vondt, og så skrubbe litt til. Eh, nei takk… Siste punktet ditt likte jeg veldig godt, og kjenner meg veldig igjen. Frustrerende å ikke orke en så enkel ting som å rense huden (eller pusse tennene), men er ikke så mye å gjøre med det. Jeg prøver å i det minste alltid å vaske det med vann og ta på fuktighetskrem.
Mulig det kan hjelpe å snakke med dermatolog eller gå til en hudpleier. Dype hudormer kan være tircky, speseilt på nesa.
Håper du finner noe som hjelper, kjære
Skrubbe-skrubbe-skrubbe til det gjør vondt tror jeg må være det verste man kan gjøre, omtrent, så bra du takker nei! Og ja, det siste punktet der gjør mye forskjell for meg også.
Pssst, I too gave up on exfoliating gels and creams years ago. They were only aggravating my semi-oily yet sensitive skin. Now gently, gently I clean with a non-rinse cleanser by Avene, a French brand. No toner and alcohol either, unless it’s a really mild and hydrating one in Shisheido’s The Skincare range.
How that I’m heaps older, my skin requires so much more moisturising, especially since I moved to a temperate country. It goes on – this hunt for the perfect-for-now moisturiser.
I’m not alone! It seems most of the people who “do” skincare are a bit obsessed with scrubbing nowadays, but all I can think is “ouch”. Gently does it, indeed! And good luck on your moisturizer hunt
Å – dette er veldig interessant! For min egen del har jeg alltid hatt problemhud(jeg ble født med eksem, så og si). Huden blir lett uren, men er i tillegg allergisk mot det meste. Den tåler sjelden produktene mot fet hud eller uren hud – hvilket fører til flere kviser og gjerne eksem i tillegg. Dette er jo problematisk da det nettopp er disse produktene jeg er blitt anbefalt å bruke av hudpleiere, folk på parfymerier o.l. Det er en slags dum tendens til å ikke se forbi det at man har kviser, og glemme allergien (hvilket i seg selv kan foresake urenheter og rødhet). Jeg brukte haugevis med produkter for å få bukt med kviser, eksem, hudormer – ansiktmasker, rensekremer, tonic, dagkrem, nattkrem osv. Og det hjalp i grunnen ikke – alà din opplevelse med Dermalogica. (Clinique + ymse hudpleieprodukter for min del).
For to år siden bestemte jeg meg for å bytte til 100% naturlig hudpleie, hvilket er tricky da jeg, som sagt, er allergiker. Byttet var grunnet etiske synspunkter – jeg ble skremt med tanke på hva jeg skylte ut i naturen, og jeg ønsker å leve så bærekraftig som mulig. Men som lenken du viste til – det er ikke alt ved naturlig kosmetisk som funker for alle, og langt fra alt som er like bra, særlig om man er allergiker. For meg har det lønnet seg å gå for produkter myntet på sensitiv hud heller enn uren og eksperimentere seg frem til hvilke ingredienser man tåler og hvilke man skal holde seg unna. (Dette henger for min del mye sammen med hva jeg tåler å spise og ikke). Tidligere kjøpte jeg bare det jeg regnet med fungerte ålreit – det var «naturlig», så hvorfor ikke? Jeg vet eksempelvis at jeg får kviser av mandelolje og en rekke eteriske oljer. Mandelolje er forøvrig problematisk, da det er dette som ofte brukes i kremer og sånt mot sensitiv hud, og det slo meg ikke at det holdt huden min tilbake fra å bli eksemfri før jeg kom på at jeg ikke kan spise mandler – så hvorfor smøre det på huden? For meg hjalp det også å kutte ned produktene jeg bruker til et minimum. Nå bruker jeg en “cleanser” to ganger daglig + selvblandet ansiktsolje og et serum en gang i uka mot uren hud – det funker (foreløpig) veldig bra. Jeg går som regel for de produktene med kortest ingredienslister. Like viktig for meg er det også å passe på hva jeg spiser. Dessuten har det hjulpet for meg å smøre meg med tålmodighet. Man ikke forvente endringer på en natt – ta tiden til hjelp osv. Men jeg har fremdeles langt fra perfekt hud, så jeg håper jo på å finne «noe» som kan hjelpe den litt til. Og jeg er fremdeles på søken etter produkter som er naturlig, økologiske, skånsomme og virkningsfulle. Men det er virkelig ikke lett å finne disse.
Nå skrev jeg meg litt vekk. Jeg har tenkt litt for lite på hvilken hud jeg egentlig «profesjonelt» sett har, tror jeg, og brukt mye tid på egen eksperimentering. Og her har jeg kanskje mistet dager og måneder der jeg kunne ha hatt både bedre hud og selvtillit. Jeg har tittet innom den hjemmesiden nå, og den er virkelig fin. (Jeg fikk jo bekreftet dette med mandelolje og allergi med en gang.) Paula virker profesjonell og skriver godt og tilgjengelig. Og jeg har virkelig ikke tenkt noe særlig på innpakkingen på produktene – dette kommer jeg til å bli mer oppmerksom på nå, altså. Hvorfor har jeg ikke funnet denne siden før? Den er ypperlig. Så takk for den lenken – jeg gleder meg til å lære mer! (Og jeg lærer noe nytt hver gang jeg tittet innom bloggen din, haha – takk for det!) Jeg synes forøvrig tipsene dine er veldig gode, og tror de fleste kan adoptere et par av dem til sin egen hudpleierutine.
Og flott illustrasjon, forresten!
Tusen takk for at du tok deg tid til å kommentere, kjære, det er kjempeinteressant å lese andres “hudhistorier”
Det der med hva man spiser er både veldig undervurdert og veldig overvurdert, synes jeg. Ofte så får jo folk med kviser høre “velmenende” råd om at de må spise sunnere – hver gang jeg hører sånt, blir jeg rett og slett sint.
Men dette med allergier ER jo veldig viktig, og noe det snakkes lite om. Jeg hadde en del små, røde nupper rundt munnen og på haken, og skjønte ikke hva de var eller hvorfor de dukket opp hele tiden. Begynte å lure på om det kunne være rosacea, men fikk det ikke til å stemme helt. Så byttet jeg til en tannkrem uten sulfater (hodebunnen min tåler ikke sulfater, så da er det jo logisk at resten av huden min ikke er overbegeistret), og det ble mye bedre. Så fant jeg ut at jeg ikke tåler laktose, og da ble det enda bedre! Nå dukker kun nuppene opp om jeg drikker lettbrus eller får i meg laktose
Anyway – jeg er glad du har funnet en rutine som funker! Og du har lært masse på veien, noe som bare kan være bra. Lykke til videre, og jeg er glad du har nytte av bloggen min <3
Tusen takk for fine tips!
Værsågod, kjære!
I just found your blog through Of Stranger Sensibilites and I’m in love. Will go through your entire archive now..
Welcome, Anuschka! Joy’s blog post was so flattering it straight-out made me blush. I’m glad you like what you see
I love that you shared not only your favorite products, but a bit about how your skin reacts. Too often, bloggers start talking about products they love with no background on their skin type and how their skin reacts.
I use Paula’s website- it’s so helpful. I must say I’m doing something right because the products that I’ve been relying on for years have gotten the good or best rating from her. Now, I always divert to her website before plunking done for something new.
Maria, I found myself agreeing with so much here.
Hear, hear! I find this even more true with magazines – they’ll “recommend” a bunch of products without mentioning anything about which skin types it might work for. Some of us slightly cynical bloggers usually know that “recommendations” in magazines are truly about advertising, but not all magazine readers are aware of the fact. Very provocing.
And I’m glad to have found a fellow Beautypedia-addict! I even have the app on my phone :p
The only thing that bothers me a bit is that all of Paula’s products are in the ‘best’ category. Some might see her whole website as a way to sell her products.
Yes, I’ve thought a lot about this, too, but I’ve finally decided I don’t feel negatively about it. Firstly, Paula worked with research and wrote books for many, many years before she developed her own products. In fact, I can sort of relate – it must get tiring to review so many products and find them lacking, and missing products you feel you can truly recommend. A bit like when people ask me for a good book about personal style; I have several I can recommend, but not a single book that contains every aspect of the subject. It’s very tempting to simply write that book myself
I find it reassuring that the research and books came _before_ the products. She also recommends several products that aren’t her own brand, so there isn’t the usual “buy my stuff or be screwed”-attitude a lot of advertisers adopt. Also, her products are very affordable, so testing them isn’t as expensive as with a lot of other products. I use one of her moisturizers now, and it costs 2/3 of what my previous one from The Body Shop did. And finally (spoiler alert, because there is a blog post about it coming up!), they seem to work brilliantly
Please write that book about personal style! With all your wonderful illustrations and polyvores. First as an e-book while awaiting a publisher. You have the technical know-how already as well, Maria.
I have a friend who writes e-novels, sells them on several bookstore sites and earns quite a tidy sum regularly. No kidding.
Eg har vore plaga med mykje allergi sjølv, og sidan huden min på det verste berre har litt kviser og tørrheit, er det svært sjeldent at eg nyttar produktar av noko slag. Eg har ein fuktighetskrem for andletet som kjem godt med om vinteren og av og til kjøpar eg ei ansiktsmaske
Som nemnt, har eg allergi og difor er huden min sensitiv. Men ein av yndlingssjampoane mine kjem frå Lush og han inneheld nettopp sodium lauryl sulfate. Eg har aldri opplevd sår hovudbunn eller andre irritasjonar ved bruk av han. Noko eg derimot fekk veldig sterke allergiske reaksjonar mot, var henna og jasmin. Kløe og svimmelheit.
Eg trur det er som du seier, ein må berre prøve seg fram, men så langt det går, vil eg helst nytte meg av “naturlege” produktar, men om eg reagerar sterkt, gjer det meg ingenting å bytte til syntetisk.
Åh, allergi er noe av det verste. Jeg slipper veldig billig unna, bare litt misfornøyd hud hvis jeg spiser laktose/(sannsynligvis) gluten, men kjenner folk som plages veldig av det. Det høres ut som om du har funnet en bra måte å takle det på, i alle fall, så hurra for dét! Det er ikke alle som reagerer på SLS, og det finnes flere varianter av stoffet også (ikke alle er like sterke), så det er ingen grunn til å unngå det bare av prinsipp, spør du meg. Jeg blir uansett glad når folk har skjønt at “naturlig” ikke automatisk betyr “best”, selv om jeg også liker tanken om at ting er snille mot naturen og slikt