The gamine style
All polyvores by me, and linked
A few posts ago I wrote about how it’s possible to have multiple styles, and mentioned I’d noticed a “new” style becoming more apparent in my own manner of dress. It’s a style you don’t hear much about, and yet I feel that it’s becoming increasingly popular nowadays. I expect it will really explode once The Great Gatsby premieres, as the 20′s was really the beginning of this thing. The style to which I’m referring? Gamine, sometimes called garçonne or ingénue. The word itself comes from the French word gamin, which means urchin/waif/playful or naughty child – which gives us some excellent clues as to the style itself.
In general
So, what is this gamine style, really? Well, while researching this post I stumbled across a forum discussion on the topic, where someone described it as “a female Peter Pan”. It’s such a brilliant explanation I knew I’d simply have to quote her on it. In general, the gamine style tends to be quite simple, elegant, delicate and stylish, often with masculine elements, and always slightly playful and with a hint of casualness. It is never strict, frilly, extremely dramatic or too girly, as the ideal is closer to a young boy than a young girl.
If you need a closer understanding of the gamine style, Audrey Hepburn is the perfect place to start. In most of her films her looks are feminine, but simple, as was her off-screen personal style. Blogger Rebecca from The Clothes Horse is another excellent example, especially after she got that amazing pixie cut. As for contemporary actresses, look to Michelle Williams, Audrey Tautou, Emma Watson and (sometimes) Natalie Portman.
Fit and cut
Traditionally the “ideal” body for the gamine style is rather slim and with a small bust, but I think it’s perfectly possible to dress in this style with any body shape. This is 2013, after all! The fit of the garments is still vital, though. It’s important that the clothes are neither too tight nor too loose, and clothes with a tailored or structured look are most common. Anything too flowy or frilly will usually look more romantic or bohemian. Silhouettes from the 50′s and 60′s tend to work well, so look for high-waisted trousers (even better if they’re slightly cropped), dresses with a fitted waist and short cardigans. Necklines are never so low they become vulgar, though they don’t need to be so high they’re unflattering for a larger bust either.
Fabrics, colours and details
As garments in this style usually have a clean, simple line, it’s best if the fabrics help achieve this. You’ll rarely see a true gamine in a floor-length pleated chiffon dress, for instance. Wools, cottons, silk and rayon/modal are all excellent, but I would avoid anything looking too artificial, such as a satin dress that’s very obviously made out of cheap, shiny polyester. Because the gamine style is rather simple, the quality of each item becomes extra important.
There aren’t any particular colours that you must avoid in this style – the focus is ultimately on you, not the clothes, so pick whatever suits you the best (that is, the ones that go with your skin tone). Still, more neutral colours such as black, navy, white, grey and beige will always work well for this look. Just make sure to add something unexpected, like an unusual nail polish or a nicely textured bag, so we don’t venture into the strictly classic look. The gamine always has a sense of playfulness about her. Elements from menswear are always welcome, such as brogues or loafer-like shoes, structured bags or a coat shape usually worn by men. Just make sure the general impression isn’t overloaded, because simplicity is key.
When it comes to patterns, stick to just one (or two, at the most) in an outfit. Smaller prints are better than large, attention-seeking ones, and a traditional breton stripe will always look more at home than sweet florals or loud geometric shapes.
Accessories
As with everything in this style, keeping things simple is essential. Bags look more gamine if they have clean lines and a slightly masculine look, than if they’re slouchy and with lots of detailing. The same goes for jewelry – anything with lots of rhinestones, chains, pendants, fringes… lots of anything, really, works against the gamine style. Flat shoes are perfect, though, so there’s no need to wear heels (which is excellent news for darlings like Maja, who wrote wonderfully about it here). Also, I’d strongly advice against over-accessorizing if you want to dress like a gamine. If in doubt, remember that well-worn phrase: “less is more”.
Hair, makeup and grooming
The ultimate gamine hairstyle is the pixie cut (which explains why I’m suddenly much more drawn to this style nowadays, huh?). I think it has to do with how such short hair is both a little bit like a boy, but at the same time so utterly feminine. If that’s not quite your thing, don’t fret, though. Bobs can be excellent, especially of the blunt variety, no matter if it barely reaches your earlobes or goes all the way down to the collarbones. As for long hair, keeping it simple and elegant is key. No matter the hair style, though, healthy hair will always look more gamine. I also think the hair should look easy and relaxed, not as though you just spent two hours styling it.
Makeup follows the same guidelines as hair and clothes. Hints to the 50′s and 60′s are lovely, like a bright lip or lots of lashes (top and bottom) – though usually not at the same time. Again, it’s supposed to feel easy and playful, not like you spent three hours in front of the mirror. Instead, I’d focus on basic grooming (I wrote about how to be polished here).
“Danger zones”
What ultimately defines the gamine style is something like simplicity + playfulness + elegance + a relaxed attitude. Because there aren’t many specifics that create this style, it can easily be “overwhelmed” by other, more easily defined styles. If we add too many elements from the 50′s, for instance, it can very easily look more pinup than gamine. This especially tends to happen if the hair and/or makeup is too complicated. If you’re missing the playful and creative details, it’ll look more straightforward classic than gamine. A lot of smokey eye makeup, or too many accessories, or a lack of grooming will give a much more casual impression, because it lacks the elegance that’s essential for a gamine. Too many frills/lace trims/floral patterns will look too romantic.
Not that there is anything wrong with mixing styles, darlings. I just think it can be useful to know which elements are true gamine, and which ones might hinder you if you’re aiming for that pure gamine look.
A final tip
I won’t tell you that to be a gamine you need to read such-and-such books, or choose a bicycle over the subway, or always be polite and nice to everyone. Tips like that aren’t really useful, because they’ll only make you feel like a failure if you don’t follow them to a tee. What I can say, though, is that if you look at pictures of gamines, you’ll usually see them smiling a lot. Even when they’re featured in fashion editorials (usually in combination with an interview), they’ll be allowed to smile brightly, which isn’t exactly common in that setting. In fact, ever since I cut off (almost) all my hair, I’ve found myself smiling more, even to strangers, and you know what? It feels wonderful! I’m sure Audrey would approve.
Thank you very much for the insight! This is a very clear and complete description of a style.
It is actually somehow close to mine, although I had no idea it was called “gamine”. So maybe your description will help pointing out the elements I like most in a silhouette. Thanks!
I’m glad my post made things clearer for you! I myself wasn’t really sure it was called “gamine”, either, until I started doing some research. Good luck on your style adventure, darling
Wonderful post darling! This cleared up so much of my confusion about the gamine look, and your Polyvores are just perfect. Also, it is so much fun to see elemtens of your own wordrobe in them – I have no problem seeing you wear any of these looks
I often see a lot of button-down shirts with this look, and shirts are such an issue for me. I have no idea where to even start to look for ones that are of good quality and who have a fit that suits me. I will crack the code one day!
Have no problem imagining you in any of these looks, rather. Sunday morning syntax error.
When you do crack that code, please share! I have yet to find a button-down shirt that looks good on me.
There IS much confusion about this look, isn’t it? When I googled it, the pages I found were rather vague, and not very helpful in actually putting together a gamine outfit. Hopefully people looking will stumble across my post and find it useful
The button-down shirt is definitely a gamine staple, but they really are tricky to find. On me, the buttons always gape around the bust area, with the fabric bulking up around my waist. Not a good look. But we don’t give up, do we? And we do own our own sewing machines (soon, at least!), so all is not lost
Hello !
what a nice article ! I’m glad ‘gamine’ look is coming back in fashion (or is it ?), because it goes together with simplicity, care for quality, and against fast fashion. It also emphasizes true beauty (like on Emma Watson !) when nothing gets in the way of the purity of the face…
Hi Clara! I’m glad you liked my post
I’ve definitely seen more and more gamine influences around nowadays, and I also approve. I think you hit it spot on about how it’s all about not hiding anything, but rather letting the woman herself take center stage. Emma Watson… oh, don’t get me started. I adore her!
ah, perfection! this post makes me swoon. i love this style (on other women as well as on myself). beautiful choice of clothes too, maria.
Thank you so, so much, Anna! It’s my favourite as well, actually
I feel like the “ideal” (in a platonic sense) gamine is Jean Seberg in the movie Breathless (or really, Jean Seberg in anything): check it out if you love the look!
Thank you for the tip, I’ve now got two Seberg movies waiting for me! Studying fashion/style through movies is my favourite way, as you can see how the clothes move, and from several angles
I adore this post! Inspired, I actually wore the gamine look to work today and felt lovely.
I also… kind of wrote a blog post about it and referenced/linked you. I hope you approve.
By “wrote a post about it”, I mean THIS post and your blog in general. I should have specified that.
Oh, Trajena, you do make a lovely gamine! And approve is a complete understatement. I’m touched, really <3
What a wonderful post. I came across on the recommendation of Maja and am delighted to find such a lovely read and such lovely picture sets. You have captured the gamine look so well here – it has helped cement a few ideas in my head and although I don’t quite fulfil a true gamine – I have little nods to it in my preferences for the “less is more” and cleaner lines with some of my clothes. But sometimes I go a bit mad and throw everything in to the mix because I think it’s good to try everything (in moderation).
Welcome to my blog, Sue! (and isn’t Maja utterly lovely?)
I won’t say I’m 100% gamine myself, either, but I think half the fun of personal style is to combine elements from different styles. I’m definitely with you on that “less is more”-approach, but also, yeah, sometimes you just have to be a bit crazy
Happy New Year! Excellent post. I found myself nodding to everything you mention. I can picture you wearing all of these looks. Your hair cut with your cheek bones is absolutely stunning. You summed up gamine style perfectly.
There are definitely gamine elements in my signature style. I love navy, black, and grey and can’t live without a high wasted slightly cropped trouser or a shirt with a peter pan collar. Jean Seaberg and Audrey are inspiration. I always think polished and elegant with a touch of whimsy. I also find that I gravitate to this look a bit because the silhouettes suit my body type.
Happy new year to you, too, kitten! Nodding is an excellent reaction to blog posts, I think. Although I’m not always 100% gamine (there’s more of a bombshell/diva in there that likes to come out to play), I could absolutely wear all these looks, especially now with my “new” hair (thank you for complimenting it, by the way!).
“Polished and elegant with a touch of whimsy” – that’s a perfect way to put it!
I have like this look for a long time (since the 80s) and still see it as a style option for me though I am older now, albeit modified. You did a great job describing the essence of this style without going into twee stereotypes and saccharine descriptions that, in my opinion, are not truly gamine but girly. Good work!
Thank you, darling, it’s always nice to hear that my posts are appreciated
I think this style is very apt to what I want to achieve this year in terms of style, especially cause I find it very “work appropriate”, at least within my sphere of jobs (teaching).
The only problem I’ve got is that my hips are very prominent and even though I adore those cropped trousers à la Hepburn I just can’t find one that looks good on me without me looking all frumpy and short. I mean I am short and wider in the hip and thigh area, I know I can’t change that but I still those trousers look goddamn awful on me or maybe it could be that I always see them on incredibly tall and thin girls with no hips whatsoever and infinite legs so my “idea” of those trousers is influenced on those images… Anyway, I’ll keep looking for one and maybe considering asking a seamstress to make one with my measurements.
By the way, I think your haircut is amazing, I love it!
Ooh, a fellow teacher, welcome, Chio! I’ve also been considering this, as my style used to be a bit more bombshell/pinup’y when I was a music student, but once I started working I felt I needed to grow up a bit, stylewise. I also appreciate that the gamine style is always appropriate, without being boring or something you see everywhere.
As for your cropped-pants-dilemma, I think I know pretty much exactly how you feel. But I also think you’re very right about the “idea” of those trousers – I actually felt this way about most kinds of clothing before I decided to actively change it, and it can still be a struggle. When the ideal body-in-a-dress looks like Dior’s New Look-ladies, with TINY waists, it takes some re-programming of the brain to realize this isn’t possible (at least not for me) without some serious corsetry.
Getting custom made pants are a great idea, as they should fit you rather perfectly, and you can have them made in exactly the shape you want. Still, I’d try a bit of re-programming, too, if I were you. It can only do good, after all
I’ve always loved this style but I just got a pixie cut and now I want to really flaunt it. Thanks for this awesome post!
By the way, are there links to the clothes/accessories??
Thanks!
Bleh, sorry, I just saw the captions!
No harm done, darling, I’m just glad you found them
And congratulations on your new pixie!
New favorite blog territory, with one of the best written and visual posts on the gamine style!
Oh, thank you, Rose!