Deciding your skin tone
by Maria

One of the most interesting things I’ve learnt at Imageakademiet has been to see what colours will suit a person. Once you learn to see the difference between warm, cool or neutral colours, it’s practically a whole new world out there. Choosing a new top or lipstick is a lot easier if you know that it will complement your skin tone. But before you have a look in the mirror, it’s a good idea to understand the difference between warm and cool colours. I made a little guide:

This basically means that there aren’t any cool yellows (with the exception of a lemony, almost lime-coloured yellow), and that a blue colour needs to be slightly green-ish to be warm. There are also some colours that are neutrals, meaning they will suit people with both warm and cool skin tones.

Don’t worry if it looks confusing at first, it takes practice to see these things with a glance, but understanding the theory means you can begin to practice. Here, for instance:

Now, to the skin tone. One way to decide, is to look at celebrities with the same colouring as you. In my instance, that could be Anne Hathaway or Alexis Bledel, both who are definitely cool (just different kinds of cool, but we won’t get into that now). Examples of warm girls are Tyra Banks, Julia Roberts and Amanda Seyfried. THIS image is a good example; Krista is cool, and Tyra is warm.
What makes this method tricky, is that you really need to look at someone in person, in natural daylight and without makeup to decide their true skin tone. And how often do we see celebrities in that situation? Second, hair and makeup can change a person’s colouring quite a lot, and actresses often have to do this because of their job. Third, pictures can be very deceiving because of lighting or photo editing.
My favourite method is the rouge test, which looks something like this:

Here’s what to do. You remove all your makeup, find a mirror big enough to see your entire head, and place it somewhere with good natural light. Then find two rouges or eyeshadows (even lipsticks might work), one in a very warm shade of red (meaning it will be rather orange) and one in a very cool shade (an almost purplish pink). You then smear two large spots on your cheeks, like pictured above. Don’t worry about blending them nicely or it looking good – you’re supposed to look a bit like a clown. Then take a step back, and cast a casual glance at yourself.
Does one colour blend better with your skin tone than the other?
Although I did the example picture using PhotoShop, I still think it illustrates my point because (at least to me) it looks like the pink colour blends away into my skin, whereas the orange looks like something that’s smudged on top of my skin. It almost looks like the orange colour is further to the front than the pink. Weird way to explain it, but that’s how I think of it. If you squint slightly, this becomes even more apparent.
Now, my skin tone is definitely cool. My teacher said that with enough makeup, she could probably make everyone in my class change their natural category, except for me. With others, the case is not so clear. If you think both colours can work for you, then you might have a skin tone that can handle both warm and cool shades. Yes, this is possible. In that case, your hair colour can “make” you warmer or cooler, and I suggest you choose a hair colour that tips you towards the colours you prefer the most. No point in going very cool with your hair if you prefer warm, peachy colours, for instance.
One could write several books about all this (and many people have done so), but I hope this post can get you started, at least. And brownie points to those who made it through the entire post, by the way! If you have any questions, fire away.
I really really really enjoyed this! I have been wanting (needing) a guide I could understand about deciding my skin tone for ages.. Well, I have always thought I leaned towards the cool end of the scale -but when you don’t know for sure you basically don’t know. This will make cleaning out my closet MUCH easier.
I’m so glad you liked it! I also think you’re cool, and if you do the rouge test you should be able to see it quite clearly for yourself
And good luck with the closet cleanout, that can be such a pain!
For en søt illustrasjon! Og det er forresten ikke bare for deg det er helt åpenbart at du er kald, du har gjort en super illustrasjonsjobb
Tusen takk!
Snille Maria som lærer oss sånn her uvurderlig informasjon gratis:)
Just returnin’ the favour, darlin’
This is a great guide, dear! And I agree with Néa, knowing these things makes the whole closet ordeal SO much easier. Now I need to find someone to donate my (on me) sickeningly orange Chanel lip stick to.. Stupid sales woman..
Oh, I know. All the magazines are talking about orange nowadays, and it drives me crazy. Yes, an orange belt or clutch can look good on everyone, but orange lipstick? Only a VERY small percentage of Norwegian women can make that work.
ahh this is interesting! i will have to do the blusher test… i’m guessing i’m warm (or hoping, because my make-up is already “warm”!)
I think you would have noticed it if all your makeup was in the wrong category, so you’re probably safe
But yes, the rouge/blusher test is great, because it’s often very easy to see which kind looks best.
Ser godt at du kler kalde farger best
Fin test!
Jeg har selv de siste månedene innsett at jeg kler kalde farger best selv.. livet ble så mye lettere nå!
Ikke sant? Sjansen for feilkjøp i både klær, sminke, hårfarge og tilbehør blir myyye mindre når man vet om man er varm eller kald
A how-to post! I’ve already staarted thinking I’m on the cool side, but thanks to this guide I know I’m in the “Definately Cool” category. Now my struggles in finding a peachy-coloured dress make so much more sense: I had actually found a cute one, but realized that they also had it in lilac (very pale purple) and that looked WAY better on me. Guess which one I bought.
Another lovely post as usual!
p.s.: I might have to start my own website so that I can actualy leave a comment without that frustratingly bland blank man’s picture beside it. I don’t know about you but it drives me crackers!
I know very well what you’re talking about – this spring, every single store has been packed with peachy things. It’s quite annoying when a colour that makes you look dead is so trendy you can hardly find anything else.
Oh, and you don’t have to start your own website to get rid of the blank man – just go to gravatar.com, and you can upload an image for your e-mail
This is a great post, I see so many women with lipstick on that makes them look dead because it’s cool but then they have self-tanner on as well which turns them orange! Do you have this problem in Norway too or is just the UK??? lol
Oh, we definitely do. Unfortunately :p
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Oi! Kom hit via en annen blogg – og hurrahei for det. Gjett hvem som skal smøre varm og kald sminke på seg selv i morgen, haha. Men ja, takk for bra innlegg. Har lenge fundert over hvilke toner jeg bør rette meg mot
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Det kan virke vanskelig å finne ut av sånt, men rouge-testen er superenkel! Håper den var til hjelp
Oj, wow! Vilka kanontips! Jag brukar alltid ha lite problem med att välja foundation och sådär, det verkar aldrig finnas någon som passar perfekt. Jag ska definitivt undersöka närmare vilken min naturliga hudton är.
Så fint at du likte posten! Foundation kan være supervanskelig, men det hjelper ofte veldig å vite om man er kald eller varm. Lykke til
jeg har forlest meg på color season analysis i en måned, snart, klarer ikke bestemme meg for noe, men har i det minste konkludert med at jeg er mer “soft” enn “clear/bright”. det er da noe! har egentlig aldri syntes at gult var min farge, og i de senere år har jeg heller ikke følt meg peachy i oransje. når jeg blir brun er det ikke like tydelig, men når jeg er vinterbleik er de to fargene, og gull, helt grusomt på meg. samtidig har jeg grønne blodårer (lett å se nå som huden er sommerbrun), og en hud som har en tendens til å se litt gul ut på bilder, ofte. blah. je ne sais pas. det er jo ikke en eksakt vitenskap akkurat. kanskje jeg er litt midt-i-mellom. syns oransje lipgloss funka fint, mens rosa blush ser ut til å gli mest inn i huden, sia kinnene mine allerede er litt rosa av seg. det er tricky! men du er jo helt klart både kjølig og dyp i fargene. du takler vel et ganske høyt nivå av kontraster også? lucky you!
Ut fra det du skriver, så kan det høres ut som om du er sommer (med en liten touch av vår? Det er mulig å kunne skli litt mellom sesonger, faktisk, ut fra hva man gjør med hårfargen sin og sånt). Hvis du sender meg et bilde (helst tatt i dagslys) på mail, så kanskje jeg kan hjelpe deg på rett vei?
Jeg er definitivt kjølig og dyp, vi kalte det en kontrastrik vinter på skolen. Tåler ganske mye av dette siden jeg allerede har så mange kontraster i meg fra naturens side (lys hud og mørkt hår og øyne). Bra observert
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